Going to the Chapel

Yesterday, I was “hired” by one of the teachers to photograph her daughter’s wedding, probably more on account of owning a digital camera than any actual skill with it. Despite her wanting to pay me something, I refused (as PCVs are not allowed to have any income during our service – I hope my Country Director is reading!), and chose to use the day as an opportunity to experience part of the culture that I had heretofore not seen. [Yes, I just used, “heretofore.”]

I arrived at her house around 2:30 to capture some of the last minute preparations that were going on with all the girls getting dressed for the occasion – seems some things are the same all over the world… Then the groom arrived with another couple, typically a slightly older married pair who act like god-parents for the newly-weds. There’s a lot of music and dancing basically from this point until the wedding ends in the wee hours of the morning. The groom greets the bride, and they try to step on each other’s foot to see who will have the upper hand in the wedding – the groom got lucky, so I guess it’s nothing but barefoot and pregnant for the wifey. There’s lots of greeting of family and some gifts of money.

Then it’s into cars, honking all the way, to drive to the village’s House of Culture, where there’s a civil ceremony and the bride, groom, and “god-parents” sign the wedding certificate. They exchange rings, kiss, drink some champagne, and of course dance some more. Highlight for me was the ceremony’s background music, an instrumental version of George Michael’s “Careless Whisper.”

Then it’s more dancing and honking through the streets, followed by pictures in front of the WWII monument. Moldovans love to take wedding pictures in front of statues. There’s one of Stefan cel Mare, sort of the George Washington of Moldova, in Chisinau, and it’s basically impossible to walk past it on the weekend without seeing several wedding parties lined up to take their photos there. After the monument, we walked quite a distance to Copceac’s last well. Apparently this is a tradition that is only sometimes still honored because it really is quite a distance to walk. As far as I’m concerned, it’s a tradition I’d be willing to let die.

From the well, we hop back in the cars for a quick drive to the restaurant in the next town over. Before entering the hall, the wedding party eats some honey to ensure a sweet life together. There’s a huge line to get in while everyone greets the bride and groom and gives their gifts, usually more money. Then we eat, play some funny games, listen to a few speeches (including one by yours truly), and dance, dance, dance. In case you’re not really getting it thus far, Moldovans LOVE to dance, particularly this circular hora-like dance that just goes around and around forever.

Overall, a pretty great day.