Morocco

I've returned from my vacation to Morocco and while I sit on the bumpy bus ride back to my village, I have the perfect opportunity to recollect my thoughts - as well as the perfect distraction from the too loud American film with Russian dubbing and the too hot bus without AC and windows that the sweating passengers refuse to open.

I arrived around 7pm at night and after attempts to get a train from the airport to a station in Casablanca failed - the train never showed - I decided to spring for the extra cost of a taxi. A Mercedes Benz taxi. It was old, but it was still a Benz. And that's when I noticed I had a strange smile on my lips, and then I realized it was because I was comfortable. The roads were smooth and the shocks worked! [Again, as I sit on this bus from the 1970s on a road where potholes are the norm, I recall my entry into Morocco quite fondly. Even my last vacation to Mongolia was full of roads worse than Moldova's. New rule - I go where there's good roads from now on.]

So, I arrived and met Caitlin, my neighbor from UVA and PCV pal in Morocco. We headed to our hotel, where after the manager was unexplainably rude to Caitlin, I tried to smooth things over by giving him some currency from Moldova and Russia to add to his collection. I think he appreciated it. Oh yeah, and another thing about Morocco: all the beds were comfortable! Roads and beds - they know how to do those things. And tea. And spices. And orange juice - oh God yes, they know how to do OJ.

Then we were off to experience the relatively new "Rick's," based on the famous film "Casablanca." The interior was white stucco with ferns in every spot and even a piano player, though he wasn't there that evening. Upstairs there's a constantly running loop of the classic black and white film and a table for two in a bay window that over looks the ocean. It was a pretty swank gin joint and Caitlin and I enjoyed being wealthy tourists, if only for one meal.

The next morning we headed to the Hassan II Mosque, the third largest in the world. It was completed in 1993 to accommodate up to 25,000 worshippers inside and another 80,000 outside, and it comes complete with its own set of Astrodome-like retractable roofs. Over 1/3 of it rests on land reclaimed from the ocean because of the verse from the Koran, "The Throne of God was on water." Inside and outside, it's GORGEOUS and with titanium doors and teak wood, it's built to last through the corrosion dolled out by the ocean. The columns in the absolution rooms (where everyone washes before prayers) are even made of some sort of special stuff the Italians make out of cement, egg, and some other ingredients to absorb the moisture in the air. You can see that it actually works because the copper chandeliers there have yet to turn green while those outside have changed color.

Then we boarded a bus to head to Oneida, a small coastal city with a big lagoon. We hung out there for a day and a half, trying to soak in some rays and swim against the incredibly strong tide that occurred every time the tide went out.

As Caitlin's site was too far away to visit during my short trip, we boarded a bus to her friend Brian's place in Amizmi, about 45 minutes outside of Marrakech. [Can I just mention again what a pleasure it was to be on a pothole-less road in a new bus?] Brian has a great site and a great 3-story place with access to the roof. We bought groceries and BBQed burgers on the roof. On account of the huge and very loud wedding going on in the street below, we stayed up until about 3am, alternately watching through a window and trying to have melon eating contests.


Then is was a quick trip back to Marrakech for some haggling in the "souks," the huge bazaar. We wound up befriending one of the spice sellers, Hamed, and at his invitation shared some excellent mint tea with him in his shop. We probably spent a little to much time (and money) there and thus had to race back to the roof of our hostel with groceries to listen to the call to prayer from all the cities' mosques while we ate bread, cheese, and veges. Then it was back to the souks for one last haggle and to get some fresh squeezed orange juice, my favorite drink in the whole world. It was a wonderful way to bring my trip to a close.

I'd like to once again thank Caitlin for being an exceptional host and vacation planner - and for her gift of argan oil. I wish her all the best with the short time left in her service. It's always nice to have a good friend just out my door and to the left.